I still remember my first time in the water, I’d describe it as an unforgettable feeling. It was also one of my first times in the Ocean. That experience left me with a great desire to try again, then, in time, I realized the more I tried the more I felt good, at ease and had more fun. I’ve always been a sports lover and all physical activities make me feel fine, but maybe with surfing I found a deeper connection.
“When I’m in the water I experience pure happiness”.
A passion like this is something you often find by chance, I guess. It becomes an obsession, something that defines you and gives you a perspective, motivation and a lot of energy. Of course to get there you have to be open, experiment new opportunities, be curious and never give up. This includes every kind of experience, also something we hate doing can, in a way, lead us to what we love. Personally, I think that once you’ve found your passion, your life changes for the better. How much is this important? It is fundamental to me.
Surfing for me is adrenaline, pureness, fun and workout.
Salt, sea, the movement of the waves and the smell of saltiness fully engage all of my senses. That’s why I consider this sport unique and every time I’m surfing I put all my attention in the present moment and enjoy that instant all the way, as if space and time no longer existed. I believe that passions make the world go round, they change it for the better and make us better for ourselves and with the others.
I think we all should listen to our attitudes and inclinations, that’s the only way of improving the society we live in. This passion has offered me spectacular sceneries, like surfing at sunset in Costa Rica, pelicans on the surface of the water at sunrise, the heads of turtles coming out of the crystal waters of Hawaii, dolphins swimming in front of me in Australia and so much more.
I guess a passion is what we manage to do every day and that, somehow, continues to surprise us.
Surfing surprises me every day and gives me a state of adrenaline, happiness and amazement that I can no longer do without.
This is the true power of a Passion!