While I was writing my travel journal I realized that the story of my experiences and emotions would have been way more valuable if they had been written differently. That’s because my aim is not only to report the single adventures I lived during my journeys (and them alone would fill a book), but also what I learnt while travelling and what surfing has given me, why it changed my life.
So, that’s why I’d like this to be not a simple blog, but a chat with anyone who’s reading, to share the happiness behind a simple lifestyle.
I still can remember the day I decided to leave for California. I was really curious to explore a place so far away from home and to experience a different culture, which also led me to discover surfing. I thought this would be something important for me, therefore I decided to get a plane ticket.
That moment, for me, was my first step out of my comfort zone: leaving my Country, for a pretty long time, just with a passport and a suitcase in my hands.
It may seem hard now, as I was on an adventure on my own, but I lived that moment with a strong will to learn. I was ready to live my “American Dream”.
I guess stepping out of the comfort zone is often regarded as something excessive and distressing, but allow me to call it my personal initiation. An initiation, to me, is a decision you make regardless of your doubts and that leads you to discover a different reality, giving you some added value.
By doing so I had the privilege of learning about surfing. I’d like to point out one thing: this is not a story about surfing, but about the power of a Passion, that, for me, happens to be surfing. I had to go around the world to find out my passion. In fact, very often, the environment we live in offers many options but, sometimes, none of them seems suitable for us. In this context, if we feel forced to make a decision, we may choose badly, as in a state of confusion.
You can be a good decision maker only when you’re free, without a doubt. When you feel like that, then you make the right choice. When you feel free, stepping out of the comfort zone can be a piece of cake. So, when I started surfing, it became my drug, something I could no longer live without.