During these years I learnt that surfing has a huge influence on your lifestyle. Surfing, in fact, isn’t just the athletic gesture of riding a wave, but so much more than this. It teaches you to be patient, selective, strengthens your adaptability, improves your courage but also makes you aware and vulnerable, it teaches you respect and gratitude, it leaves you with a constant sense of expectation and prepares you to anything, you learn to fall and rise again with style. I’ve learnt that our mind is the engine of our body, therefore of our actions, and believing in it is the only way to reach a good result.
The secret?After a bad wave you have to rise up fast, because you don’t know what’s next.
If you can’t find the perfect wave, every day is a chance to surf better than the day before. The important thing is to move on, never stop, because without speed there’s no balance and you can fall.
What I like most about surfing is that it wakes all my senses in the present moment. Living “here and now” is very important to enhance our actions and our present. Very often, in fact, we are distracted by what’s around us and we don’t pay attention to the moment we are living. Our future depends on our present.
Surfing teaches you a very important lesson: enjoy every second deeply and consciously.
That’s how I learnt so many things that are useful in my everyday life, through surfing. Surfing is also sacrifice, first of all because you don’t always get what you want, and then because it forces you to travel to practice it. But the feeling I get when I’m in the water and the experiences I’ve lived pay me back plenty.
The water is another beneficial element for both body and mind. 90% of our body is made of water and when we are born we are perfect swimmers. It is a part of us or, better said, is our origin and our essence. Salted water is a real elixir, as it’s breaking frees negative ions that are good for our body and our mind. This gives us joy and a sense of wellbeing.